General Information
Number of participants: 2
Number of days: 11
Water Level: Medium on both the Ouapetec and the Moisie
Trip Dates: Two weeks at the start of September
Total KM: 211
Total Elevation drop: 1800 ft
Maps used: 1:50000 (22 O/2, 22 J/15
Gauge: Moisie River gauge http://www.cehq.gouv.qc.ca/Suivihydro/graphique.asp?NoStation=072301
The minimum water you want for this river is medium. We had Medium water and the white water was incredible, it would go with a little less water, but not too much, Ask around the Cote Nord Facebook page for area water levels. Medium is a perfect start point for both kayak and canoe.
Some useful information regarding Moisie levels:
Having done the Moisie 3 times and the railroad rapids 6 times I have some thoughts on levels.
150-350 cms is average summer flow. 150 is very low, 250 is medium and 350 is high 350-550 is very high! I think most people will not like the railroad rapids above 450 cms. I have kayaked the rail road section at 650 and it was very reminiscent of the Ottawa lunch stop waves at 10 on the gauge. I have also portaged the entire section (I was in canoe) at over 1100 cms.
General weather: Average for the start of September and early October.
Pace of trip: Resonable days, but very physically demanding
Campsites: The Camping on the Ouapetec is not good, all sites (with the exception of two) requiered large amounts of gardening or looking to put one tent up. The two exceptions are after the S bend falls section there is a small rocky point on RL in a burn, this provided easier camping. The second is le Bon Spot after the falls after lac Ouapetec on RL. it has a wonderful view, a great kitchen and reasonable camping)
Route overview: We do not recommend walking in its long and very hard. We where quoted $1800 for a beaver to Grand lac German with Air Tunilic. Take the flight!
Lake Overview: Lac Walker (reservoir SM3) is a huge lake, there is no camping and a bush crash would be creative at best. Grand lac Germain is a much more reasonable lake, as it is a lake not a filled river valley. There is camping to be found. Lac Ouapetec is very beautiful!
Crossover Overview: The first portage is easy to find and follow, however it slowly becomes engulfed alders as it follows the creek bed. The next step, over the mountain is very physically demanding. There is no trail and you ascend some 600 feet up in the span of about a km, with about the same dropping to the other side.
Whitewater overview: This is probably one of the best hard boater rivers in the area. The white water is truly amazing, and sometimes you forget how truly awful the portaging is. Be it Kayak or Canoe the Ouapetec is a river of LEDGAND STATUS!!!!!!! For canoe you will be treated to a boat scouting paradise of incredible class 3.
In Kayak there are plenty of complex slides and falls to keep you on your toes! A word of warning to kayakers, just because the canoeists to lots of time portaging does not mean you will necessarily paddle the river fast the class 5 is steep with plenty of moves to make! That being said there are some real wonderful kayak sections to paddle
Schedule: We planned on going for 12 days (plus an extra day of food) we cut it short a day as we paddled two days in one. If flying in, I should think 8 days for canoe and 7 for kayak should be sufficient
Sept Iles: Great Town to Start an expedition in. It has everything that you would need, Walmart, Tims Ext. Hot Tip, Gino's has really good pizza, but Marcos in Baie Comeau is better. To sleep; there is a wide variety of hotels and motels, a thriving Tinder scene, the Walmart parking lot, and a quiet little park near the train station.
Number of participants: 2
Number of days: 11
Water Level: Medium on both the Ouapetec and the Moisie
Trip Dates: Two weeks at the start of September
Total KM: 211
Total Elevation drop: 1800 ft
Maps used: 1:50000 (22 O/2, 22 J/15
Gauge: Moisie River gauge http://www.cehq.gouv.qc.ca/Suivihydro/graphique.asp?NoStation=072301
The minimum water you want for this river is medium. We had Medium water and the white water was incredible, it would go with a little less water, but not too much, Ask around the Cote Nord Facebook page for area water levels. Medium is a perfect start point for both kayak and canoe.
Some useful information regarding Moisie levels:
Having done the Moisie 3 times and the railroad rapids 6 times I have some thoughts on levels.
150-350 cms is average summer flow. 150 is very low, 250 is medium and 350 is high 350-550 is very high! I think most people will not like the railroad rapids above 450 cms. I have kayaked the rail road section at 650 and it was very reminiscent of the Ottawa lunch stop waves at 10 on the gauge. I have also portaged the entire section (I was in canoe) at over 1100 cms.
General weather: Average for the start of September and early October.
Pace of trip: Resonable days, but very physically demanding
Campsites: The Camping on the Ouapetec is not good, all sites (with the exception of two) requiered large amounts of gardening or looking to put one tent up. The two exceptions are after the S bend falls section there is a small rocky point on RL in a burn, this provided easier camping. The second is le Bon Spot after the falls after lac Ouapetec on RL. it has a wonderful view, a great kitchen and reasonable camping)
Route overview: We do not recommend walking in its long and very hard. We where quoted $1800 for a beaver to Grand lac German with Air Tunilic. Take the flight!
Lake Overview: Lac Walker (reservoir SM3) is a huge lake, there is no camping and a bush crash would be creative at best. Grand lac Germain is a much more reasonable lake, as it is a lake not a filled river valley. There is camping to be found. Lac Ouapetec is very beautiful!
Crossover Overview: The first portage is easy to find and follow, however it slowly becomes engulfed alders as it follows the creek bed. The next step, over the mountain is very physically demanding. There is no trail and you ascend some 600 feet up in the span of about a km, with about the same dropping to the other side.
Whitewater overview: This is probably one of the best hard boater rivers in the area. The white water is truly amazing, and sometimes you forget how truly awful the portaging is. Be it Kayak or Canoe the Ouapetec is a river of LEDGAND STATUS!!!!!!! For canoe you will be treated to a boat scouting paradise of incredible class 3.
In Kayak there are plenty of complex slides and falls to keep you on your toes! A word of warning to kayakers, just because the canoeists to lots of time portaging does not mean you will necessarily paddle the river fast the class 5 is steep with plenty of moves to make! That being said there are some real wonderful kayak sections to paddle
Schedule: We planned on going for 12 days (plus an extra day of food) we cut it short a day as we paddled two days in one. If flying in, I should think 8 days for canoe and 7 for kayak should be sufficient
Sept Iles: Great Town to Start an expedition in. It has everything that you would need, Walmart, Tims Ext. Hot Tip, Gino's has really good pizza, but Marcos in Baie Comeau is better. To sleep; there is a wide variety of hotels and motels, a thriving Tinder scene, the Walmart parking lot, and a quiet little park near the train station.
Trip Report
Day 1
HoW: 7:45-3
Distance: 32km
Campsite: 494 599 22 O/2 (start of portage)
Weather: Wind from SW, overcast
Synopsis:
Took the canoe 2km down the portage
Day 2
HoW: 9:30-3:30
Distance: 4km of portage + 1 km of lake paddle
Campsite: 515 647 (hunt camp)
Weather: Rain all day!
Synopsis:
First 2km of the portage are reasonable. It gets progressively shittier as the trail follows the creek bed. After some very thick alders we elected to use the ridges on the sides of the creek. This was way easier as there was open forest and caribou lichen.
Day 3
HoW: 9-5:30
Distance: 3km
Campsite: 545 645 (kidney lake)
Weather: Sun and cloud
Tech:
Day 4
HoW: 9-4
Distance: 17km
Campsite: 681 775
Weather: Sunny
Synopsis:
It was to early to camp on the lake, but it suddenly became too late to paddle. Our campsite required a lot of gardening to become habitable.
Tech:
Day 5
HoW: 9-4:45
Distance: 4km
Campsite: 723 755 (rocky point)
Weather: sun/ clouds
Synopsis:
Amazing white water! Horrible portages! Also eddies are few and far between in the white water
Tech:
Day 6
HoW: 9-3
Distance: 11km
Campsite: 714 646 “le Bon spot”
Weather: Sunny
Synopsis:
Lac Ouapetec is beautiful, finally you are really getting into the mountains. The best campsite of the whole trip for sure!
Tech:
Day 7
HoW: 9-4
Distance: 2.5km
Campsite: 702 615 on ridge at end of portage
Weather: Sunny
Synopsis:
The portage around the lead up to the island and the island is really not great! Stay high for as long as possible, but not too high. We portaged directly from our campsite. The class 5 in the island section is BIG!
Tech:
Portaged from campsite till 713 636
What you are portaging around:
HoW: 8:30-5
Distance: 16km
Campsite: 700 458
Weather: Hot and sunny
Tech:
HoW: 8:30-5:15
Distance: 70km
Campsite: R4 bend on the Moisie before the Nipissis confluence
Weather: Hot and sunny
Tech:
HoW: 10-3
Distance: ?
Campsite: RL beside the first R3 at the railroad section of the Moisie
Weather: cloudy
Day 11
HoW:9-2
Distance: Finished the river
Campsite: Not in a tent!!
Weather: biblical rain, ferocious head winds
Tech:
1) Ripped the shit out of the railroad section
HoW: 7:45-3
Distance: 32km
Campsite: 494 599 22 O/2 (start of portage)
Weather: Wind from SW, overcast
Synopsis:
Took the canoe 2km down the portage
Day 2
HoW: 9:30-3:30
Distance: 4km of portage + 1 km of lake paddle
Campsite: 515 647 (hunt camp)
Weather: Rain all day!
Synopsis:
First 2km of the portage are reasonable. It gets progressively shittier as the trail follows the creek bed. After some very thick alders we elected to use the ridges on the sides of the creek. This was way easier as there was open forest and caribou lichen.
Day 3
HoW: 9-5:30
Distance: 3km
Campsite: 545 645 (kidney lake)
Weather: Sun and cloud
Tech:
- Went up ridge at 518 648
- The flats on top are mostly open with only a few shit spots
- Make sure to descend right of the creek at 535 640. Portage high on the ridge right of the creek, left of the creek is shit AF!
Day 4
HoW: 9-4
Distance: 17km
Campsite: 681 775
Weather: Sunny
Synopsis:
It was to early to camp on the lake, but it suddenly became too late to paddle. Our campsite required a lot of gardening to become habitable.
Tech:
- Dragged and lined at 545 642
- Short portage around rocky falls at 552 642
- Short portage around R3 ledge at 557 656
Outflow from lake
1) Continuous R3 677 777-681 775 portaged once, lined once. Ran everything else.
Day 5
HoW: 9-4:45
Distance: 4km
Campsite: 723 755 (rocky point)
Weather: sun/ clouds
Synopsis:
Amazing white water! Horrible portages! Also eddies are few and far between in the white water
Tech:
- R3 from campsite to lake
- R3 from the end of the lake to pond (686 770) Scout around corner to look for last chance eddy RL
- R2 around corner to last chance eddy RL
- R5 688 767 Portaged 300m RL. Portaging around a 40 slide, a siphon (maybe line R4) and a manky R3
- R2 From bottom of the last rapid till obvious last chance eddy RL
- S-Bend falls 697 765 continuous R5/ portages portaged over ridge till 705 764. THEN...
- R3 Continuous alpine style, no eddies ran RL of island. Doesn't stop, but gets smaller the closer to the lake
Day 6
HoW: 9-3
Distance: 11km
Campsite: 714 646 “le Bon spot”
Weather: Sunny
Synopsis:
Lac Ouapetec is beautiful, finally you are really getting into the mountains. The best campsite of the whole trip for sure!
Tech:
- R1/2 Continuous starting at 727 732
- R3 Ledge after elbow at 730 728 ran RR
- R4/5 Portage 717 652 to pool before campsite.
Portaging around:- a) R4 717 652
b) R5 715 650
- a) R4 717 652
Day 7
HoW: 9-4
Distance: 2.5km
Campsite: 702 615 on ridge at end of portage
Weather: Sunny
Synopsis:
The portage around the lead up to the island and the island is really not great! Stay high for as long as possible, but not too high. We portaged directly from our campsite. The class 5 in the island section is BIG!
Tech:
Portaged from campsite till 713 636
What you are portaging around:
- a) R3/4 Continuous 714 646 to 713 642
- b) The island R5 714 641
c) R5 714 638
d) R3/4 continuous getting easier till the end of the island
1) Royal ride from portage till...
- b) The island R5 714 641
- R3 Ledge 706 622 ran RL
- R3 705 620 Lined and lifted over RL
- R4 Continuous, portaged RR 704 618 ends with la Langue du Diable, R5
HoW: 8:30-5
Distance: 16km
Campsite: 700 458
Weather: Hot and sunny
Tech:
- Royal ride from site
- R2/3 Ledge 702 613, lined RL
- Royal ride, no more then R2 till end of the map
- R2 Continuous 22 J/15 699 520 flows into...
- R3 Continuous 22 J/15 701 510 we scouted twice; once to run an R3 ledge, a second (immediately after the ledge) to scout for the take out eddy
- Take out! 698 497 RL pre-scout to find. Portage 1km till 696 486. We put in early and had to line 1) large R3 and 2) portage around 1 large R4.
The first portage you are portaging around and R4 bolder garden and an R5 - R1/2 continuous from 696 486 till 699 478
- Royal ride till camp
HoW: 8:30-5:15
Distance: 70km
Campsite: R4 bend on the Moisie before the Nipissis confluence
Weather: Hot and sunny
Tech:
- Royal ride from site
- R1/2 The giggle squiggles 701 450
- R 2/3 The last laugh 700 441 lined RL to a spot we could easily run the drop
- Current/ Royal ride, slowing till the confluence
HoW: 10-3
Distance: ?
Campsite: RL beside the first R3 at the railroad section of the Moisie
Weather: cloudy
Day 11
HoW:9-2
Distance: Finished the river
Campsite: Not in a tent!!
Weather: biblical rain, ferocious head winds
Tech:
1) Ripped the shit out of the railroad section
The Story
Driving days:
The drive to Sept Iles was more tumultuous then normal as 1) we started hungover from Keven and Jenny's wedding and 2) the wedding was near North Bay, thus adding an additional 4 hours to our 13 hour drive. Yay! 17 hours of driving over the next 2 days! Day one we drove to our favourite spot, just past Malbaie. Along the way we had a lunch time poutine in Portage Fort and a not so quick stop at Morgan and Ben's to pick up the canoe. Day two of the drive was a little shorter (on purpose) as we needed to shuttle in to the river that evening. The morning ferry was wonderful, we drank our coffee and watched three whales (belguas) play in between the boats. We stopped at our favourite fish monger in Les Escumines (the only fish monger in Les Escumines) to pick up some fresh Cote Nord cod for dinner. As we where driving we texted Neilson (out shuttle driver), to confirm our arrival time in Sept iles. He notified us that his car was broken and could we please use Alicia's car. We had many questions; do you drive standard, is the road suitable for a Honda Civic? The answers delighted us, “Yes”. The cherry on top, he would store the car at his house, and drop it off at the takeout. The drive to Lac walker (Saint Margarite 3) passed through the ZEC Matimek, usually you have to pay at the gate, but no one was there and we drove on under Neilson's pass. The drive was gorgeous and it was hard sometimes not to gasp. It was also hard not to follow the lovely river and boating conversation we were having with Neilson. The road really was great, it was all-season (paved) to within 8 or 10km of our put in, and the hard packed gravel was stellar! We sampled cod for the first time for dinner, and absolute knockout fish! The campsite (at the boat launch) is beautiful, with plenty of fire wood, and only a little trash.
Day 1
We awoke early to the peaceful sound of waves lapping on shore...also to an animal (perhaps an otter?) Trying unsuccessfully to climb our tent, not once but twice. A quick breakfast was consumed and we were on the water with a light tail wind to carry us swiftly down the lake. As the wind was from the South West and the lake curves slightly East our glorious tailwind turned into a bothersome side wind. Still better then a head wind as the side wind kinda helped us at some points. The reservoir is massive, filling a once immense and powerful river and turning it into an angry lake. With the original river valley full, the small hills that dominated the valley are reduced to islands that dot the lake. The Steep valley and mountains that framed the original river, now hold the lake. This combination makes for a lake that does not have any camping opportunities, at some points getting out can be challenging as the shoreline is steep. The other challenge was navigating this immense waterway was our topographic paper maps where from the last datum (1972) and the SM3 dam was completed in 2002. Thus rendering our topographic maps useless (we needed the maps because they included the Ouapetec river). The old maps fascinating as they showed the old falls and rapids now drowned by the reservoir. The piece de resistance was looking at the Le Grand Portage de le Saint Margarite, around a Grand Chute of colossal proportions. Our Topographic map showed a tremendous canyon dropping hundreds of feet over 10km. What it was like to stand at the brink of such a place we will never know as it is a dry river bed, It's water diverted in to the turbines of the SM3 dam. Luckily our in reach was up to date and showed the lake.
The day was spent dragging a line without success as well as loosing a favourite spoon – no fish were caught. A highlight was seeing an eagle. We arrived to our portage spot early, after a brief mistake on our location (we hit the shore one bay too early). The plan was to look for the old Innu portage Mameshtan. While we did not think the portage would still be there, we hoped that there would be something, anything. As we unloaded on a pile of driftwood angels sang out and golden trumpets blasted. A trail was before us. Very clearly a snowmobile trail, our hearts soared! With the clock being what it was we started down a snowmobile trail with our spirits high. Fraser took the canoe and Alicia took any and all froo we did not need to camp, and started trekking down the trail. At first it was good, but as the minutes and meters passed into kilometres the trail began to deteriorate. We decided to check the GPS, wonderful 2.5km of travel done...Oh no...2.5km travelled in the wrong direction! We decided to leave the canoe where it was and walk back, scanning the trail for a possible turn off. Nothing! We walked up a the creek, where the Innu trail was supposed to be. Nothing. Our boat was now 2.5 Km (or so) towards Lac Daubrigon. We sat and discussed our options: do we carry the canoe back and make our own portage over to Petit lac Germain – 8kms of bad portaging? Or. Do we carry on towards lac Daubrigon (5kms total and the canoe was already half way), and then create our own 2nd 2km portage to a tributary to the water system we need to get to? We decided on option 2 as the canoe was already 2.5 km towards the new lake. Our hope was that the trail would get a bit better, and perhaps we could find another trail into our water system and not have to bush-walk. We feed our machines with seafood Alfredo, a heck of a day today: over 30km of paddling and 2.5 km of portaging. We headed to bed quickly as a drizzle begins to start.
Day 2
We awoke to a North wind and a steady drizzle. Our tent was wet, and parts of Fraser's sleeping bag was damp. Oh how he hates being wet! It appears the new ground sheet is not as dry as described. With the weather, we decided to have coffee and G-bars for breakfast. We also decided rain before 7 done by 11, and with that positive note we packed up and got ready to portage. Much to our chagrin it would rain all day, and by the end we would look like more like used cold sponges then people.
After bringing all of our stuff to the canoe we began part 2 of the portage. Remember how we had hoped it would get better. It didn't! It was right after struggling through an especially loving patch of alders and Fraser's pants were affectionately shredded that we elected to leave the snowmobile 'trail' in search of higher ground and clearer walking. And that we found! We made our on way on the top of a low ridge, making use of the clear caribou lichen meadows. 3 km later we made it to the lake, drenched. We lunched on a can of muscles and bread heading out to walk again in the atmospheric river. We got turned around a few times on our second load as we found another snowmobile trail. But in the end, with a few extra meters we made it through the wilderness to Lac Daubrigon, all in one piece, except for Fraser's pants. With our boat packed and spirits low we paddled into the wind and rain hoping to find a place to stay. Our hearts wanted a fire to warm our bones and dry our clothes. But we knew, deep inside that that might just not be possible in these conditions.
As we rounded a corner, lo and behold a cabin. We tried to look for the key to get inside (couldn't), so settled on camping behind the wood shed. Wow what a feeling, sitting beside a crackling fire out of the pouring rain and cold north wind. Hot chocolate with Kahlua was enjoyed immediately and an extensive drying rack was assembled. All this before settling into a regular evening: Dal bhat for dinner and cozying into a dry tent, amazing! What an incredible turn of events.
Day 3
we awoke to a North wind with a mix of sun and clouds. Morning was slow, Alicia spilled the coffee water and Fraser added way too much water to the oatmeal pot. Needless to say it was slow. Before leaving we left the cabin owners a wee letter thanking them for their hospitality. We paddled a few hundred meters down the lake to a spot that seemed reasonable to start our trek. We were momentarily excited when we saw more trails, but upon a quick scout noted that they seemed to be going around the lake, not over the mountain. We began the first of our two legs up and over. First the canoe and Froo. We went 200m up, (for you metrics) 600 feet up (for those that use imperial) and a fuckinahalfloadup (for everyone else) in elevation all within about a kilometre. One hour and a half later we reached the summit and were treated to many an open meadow of caribou lichen. The views are stunning, we can see the lake that we are coming from, as well as the start of Grand lac Germain. Part 3 sucked, we dragged the boat down through very new growth and alders. We had lunch at the bottom and joyously walked back for round two. Alicia laboured with the barrel, while Fraser navigated. This time we took an alternate route down the other side. It worked much better. All in all it took us 8 hours to portage 3km, we camped on the other side of Kidney lake (actually more of a pond).
Day 4
We woke to an alarm clock of loons. After a delicious breakfast of eggs and bacon in a wrap (toppings where garlic mayo, mushrooms and salsa), we started off with high spirits. Not a hop skip and a jump down the creek we came to our first obstacle. We lined and dragged our way stoically until we where able to paddle. The paddling was, however short lived as we came to a horizon line. The creek had decided to tumble from a great height over a rocky falls. Out we got and carried our stuff around the short portage, there was even a little animal trail to follow...easy! After the portage, we joined our the creek from the original plan. YAY, more water! We lined and lifted another small drop just as we entered the lake. Fraser whipped out his fishing gear excited to fish Grand lac Germain, and we began our 16km paddle across Grand lac Germain. After passing a cabin (not as luxurious as the last one, but still nice) the hills started getting much larger, as did the lake. We had a slight tail wind which pushed us across in good time. As we reached the far side it became apparent the we were not lucky and we would not be dinning on fish tonight. We checked our watches and concluded that it was still a bit too early to camp, so we began our decent down the Riviere Ouapetec. After a couple hundred meters of paddling, lining, and portaging we realized that it was best if we camped, and tackle the rest tomorrow. We began some serious remodelling of the area, and much gardening ensued. We now have a a tent site! We also took a little walk down river and concluded that we can run the rest of the rapids empty boated tomorrow.
Day 5
Today we learned the the river starts with a Q. This is very confusing as there is an outfitter at the mouth that starts with an O. Woops.
We awoke from our little nook in the forest, breakfasted and portaged our kit to the bottom of the rapids. We then ran the rapids which were so, so much fun. This began the theme of the day, very good white water and very bad portages. Anyway back to the day. We eddy hopped our way down the river, pausing briefly to scout around a corner. We want to be clear by 'eddy' we mean hold on to bushes on the side of the river. We were cautious as there was a known falls approaching. We caught the 'classic' last eddy above the falls, unloaded and began the torturous carry around the ragging falls and subsequent rapids. This particularly painful portage perfectly pulverized our bodies. It may have only been 500m but it took the better part of a few hours to complete. The forest was so tight with new balsam fir we resorted to dragging the boat over and under trees. Fraser's pants developed a few more holes in them, and we both lost a few more screws in our heads. We then treated to lovely R1s and 2s before the second ominous horizon line loomed ahead of us. The last available eddy was caught, we are now beginning to understand why every portage is in the last available eddy. We unloaded our canoe elated as this was a mile stone area and we both were excited for what the huge waterfall would be.
We excitedly don our packs, and momentarily forgot about the joys of portaging in this area: The black spruce snakes, sphagnum moss death pits and the unforgiving balsam fir fingers. This portage was slightly better then the last, although the bit in the middle had a few large ridges and rocks to contend with. Midway through our first load we stopped for lunch. A short hike down to the river's edge presented us with a never ending water slide, the piece de resistance of the S-bend falls. This slide dropped several hundred feet in the span of a km. Very impressive, but unfortunately we need to keep portaging. At the start of the second load we discovered the very old remnants of a portage trail. We saw very old cut marks and blazes that would then disappear, as well as a few strands of very old flager, white with age. We take our hats off to these individuals.
Finishing our last load we assessed the rapids at the bottom of the falls, they went in canoe, but with out a deck the continuous nature coupled with sheer size of the waves made the decision to carry our kit a little further down river. Although still continuous we believed it would soon start tapering off. We putin on a side channel of the river, most of the water volume takes the outside bend around a small island. There was however just enough water to manoeuvre our boat down our little channel. Not without a casual beach on rocks. Upon entering the main flow it was as if being shot from a canon. Where moments before we dodging and scraping over rocks, now the rocks were covered and we were in boof city. The river never stopped, no eddies just boat scouting amazing class 3 white water. A short while later we casually beached our selves needing to empty all the “fun” from inside our boat. Back on the river, we continued down as the river slowly eased off, ending finally, and abruptly in a pile of rocks and a pool full of smiles. We whooped for joy, what a heck of a day from the abysmal lows of the portaging to the immense highs of the white water.
We paddled on down the river hoping to find something marginally OK to camp at for the night, but understanding that, this might not happen given the looks of the land. Lucky for us fortune breathed upon us. A small rocky point for easy unloading and kitchen presented its self. All that was needed to erect our tent for the night was to move some burned logs...easy...in compared to the night before. Quinoa casserole for dinner, and early to bed.
Day 6
We awoke early after a restless night, way too warm. Only a little rain the night before, still we opted for the stove as it was easier. The bugs however probably ate better then we did. A quick get away was in order and we paddled fast for the first few minutes in order to get away from the ferocious flying insects. This was more difficult then you would think as it was incredibly calm. Point number two for the blackflys. The river began to pick up and we were treated to a few meh class twos. Nothing special, all boat scouting. We came around a blind corner and voila a surprise ledge. We snagged the classic one boat eddy and Fraser went off to scout. Turns out it went on the right, and was one of those “yea it probably goes, even though it doesn't look great” moments. Alicia concurred with that statement and we fired up the bounce slide ledge thing. It was a grand experience and Alicia got a heck of a lot of air, all the while staying dry and feeling like she was briefly falling sidewzys off the ledge. Great line! The fun and easy boat scouting carried on, tapering down to Lac Ouapetec. Lac Ouapetec is not named on the map, but we felt it is a fitting description for the only lake on the river. Of note again is it 'Q'uapetec or 'O'uapetec. Perhaps the cartographer was confused or perhaps the hunting outfitter was confused. As we approached the main portion of the lake a cabin added to this mystery by spelling it with an 'O' not a 'Q'. We will have to research the rivers name when we get home*.
Lac Ouapetec is where we really started to see the mountains rise around us, in front and behind. Crossing the lake Fraser caught a wee brook trout, the first fish of the trip! Lunch was enjoyed at the end of the lake as we assessed our options. They where as follows: portage here and now at the end of the lake, carry on down river and find another portage, start a 'loin portage' on the opposite side of the river. We opted to keep paddling. Perhaps 50m later we were presented with a horizon line and our portage eddy. This one was great (in comparison to everything else) lots of open caribou lichen to portage around. We finished both loads just before 3pm, it did not take much convincing by Alicia for Fraser to agree to camp. The sun was shining, there was a beautiful pool, and a rocky point. Exceptional! The cherry on top was a fantastic view of a portion of the falls we had just portaged around. Here we found remnants of our traveller friend's fire. Moss covered logs and stack of old wood next to it. Near where we pitched our tent we found a blaze on a tree. It seams they also though this was 'le bon spot'. Fraser built a fire pit with a good view of the falls and Alicia busied herself with a 'spot of gardening', clearing the labrador tea for a tent site. Fraser then went off to fish the pool and was lucky enough to catch a few wee brook trout. Unfortunately for us, but fortunately for the fish none where of a size for the fry pan. Alicia organized, cleaned and dried the barrel then announced it was time to clean our selves. The water was cold but we felt fantastic afterwords, funny how that is. Pizza for dinner and a single brownie for dessert, Fraser even made it square.
*At home we did some Googling on the 'O' vs 'Q' spelling issue. Nothing came up.
Day 7
Dear Diary:
We have been labouring for the past week. We have portaged every day, some times all day. To say the portaging has been hard has been an understatement. Never have we had such an emotional roller coaster of highs and lows. The white water, never ending always exceptional. Ironically Diary the the same words can be used for the portaging, never ending and exceptionally bad. The good news Diary is that we are finally passed the Island so the last of the hard portaging should be behind us.
Our hope was that we could paddle to the start of the island, thus shortening the inevitable portage. We are thankful that Fraser walked the almost 1 km of white water the day before, scouting till the River dropped away. Although it would have been doable, sometimes dearest Diary it is easier to face the 'loin portage' then to paddle. This one rates high on the list of worst portages we have done. We descended to early on our first load, and had to deal with thick balsam fir new growth. On the way back we went too high, in our attempt to find a path through the maze of balsam fir new growth. Not appealing whats so ever. Fraser swore many times regretting the decision to portage (even though he scouted and made the call). Upon reaching our beautiful campsite he sat him self down by the canoe readying himself like everyone before him to face the portage. With the canoe Alicia traced a middle ground and were able to, with some dragging get it through the new growth and over to the other side without to much heart ache.
Upon reaching the end, although exhausted we dug deep paddled the out flow rapid, and stopped. We did this not wanting to rest and lunch at the end of such a miserable experience. All in all it only took 3hrs or roughly all morning. Over a lunch of GORP we texted Father Cepella to ask about the rise in smoke. After lunch our pain and suffering was rewarded with a luxurious royal ride,and a very tasty treat of a rapid. Much to our chagrin the luxury was short lived after a testy bout of lining/portaging we were forced to trudge once again through the woods to our mossy campsite, albeit with only a little bit of balsam fir dragging. All this around a bonus series of ledges and falls. We felt deflated and defeated. What would the river serve us tomorrow? Protein powder and Kahlua (served separately) where consumed in order to raise spirits. This was not sufficient so chocolate was consumed as well. While all of our clothes air dried from the eight bucket loads of sweat, we began the dinner process. We opted for easy, a one pot meal, on the stove, dal bhat. Father Cepella by this point had gotten back to us, the smoke was being blown from fires near Quebec city. No concern to us.
Another early bed time, likely another big day tomorrow.
Day 8
We awoke in our mossy den, earlier then normal to warm rays from the sun. A quick get away and we were on the water just past 8:30. This, after lowering all of our stuff down the steep bank to get to the river. Royal ride ensued and we arrived quickly to our first problem point. An easy line, hurrah! As we floated down the easy R1s and royal rides we saw a moose, no more then 10 feet away from us! Not sure who was more surprised, us or the moose. We sat and floated (Fraser struggled to get his non functioning camera to work) until the large bull turned and walked off into the forest. The bull was a hunter dream, and had perhaps the biggest rack both of us had ever seen.
We carried on down our royal ride occasionally punctuated by R2s and beautiful cliffs. As we approached the canyon the river began to pick up and the walls to steepen. On river left almost a 1000 feet, on river right the high ridges top out over 2000 feet above us. Eddy to eddy we work our way down the river, non stop rapids never dulling our minds. Our one thought, where is the falls? Will we need to stop and portage at this corner? At one point the river steepens enough to warrant a look, luckily it goes as a portage here would be heinous. At this point the walls are tight around us. A look around a blind corner and we find our portage eddy and the sinister horizon line we have been waiting for. We negotiate the last section of whitewater a little wetter then usual. In the eddy, we both comment on how incredible the last km of river was. Challenging, but incredible. Unfortunately now the work begins again, we are forced to haul our gear up the side of the near vertical cliff in order to get to the flatter portaging ground. All this so we can begin our 1 km portage, all of this before 12pm.
The first load took a while, but we were comforted in the repeated sightings of our old friends portage cut marks that once used to be a trail...not that it helped at all. Looks like they did the exact same thing as us. Catch the last eddy and hack their way through the bush. At the end we juiced – a new bubble gum flavour from colombia, disgusting. We pushed off to take a look at the river. Alas if it was not for the next horizon line it would have been doable. We opted to line the top and run the bottom. Perhaps we should have portaged longer? The horizon line after that presents itself as a bonus portage. This one feels shorter, but sadly when we check our watches at the end we realize its almost camping time. On we go with the agreement that when it gets big we stop, no matter how bad the ca0pming. Lo and behold an easy royal ride ensues and we are whisked away through some braids to our campsite. We were overjoyed and relieved. Spag for dinner and a map sesh, confirming there will be only one more portage on the mighty Ouapetec.
Day 9
We awake on our one tent, tent site. A small patch of sand next to the river. Light and fluffy pillow cakes where expertly flipped by Fraser, who's flipping skills wowed Alicia. We headed out feeling trepidation, would the squiggles and rapid marks on our maps be a portage? The contours are close together, everything that we have learned from the river tells us there will be one. Fortunately the squiggles presented them selves as giggles and the anticipated portage turned to a last laugh as we lined a rocky top portion of a rapid to where we could run. We floated down the river elated that there would be no more portaging on the Ouapetec. Our elation grew as we floated through nameless mountains, ogling at cliffs of insanity. It seems the camera couldn't take the majesty, and only took sub par photos. To be fair it also did not help the it was before 10 am, therefore the light was in our eyes and there was a slight smokey haze. We blame all this for our inability to capture pictures of two more moose. It seams there are quite a few 'Loch Ness moose' in this area. We floated down silently as Alicia attempted to capture the grazing moose. 15 km later we celebrated at the confluence of the Moisie with an O'Henry bar. All before noon!
While the sun broiled our backs we paddled down the Moisie into a growing headwind. we took a break and floated through the canyons eating lunch. Hummus, cheese, apple and garlic mayo in a wrap. It sounds strange but was delicious. The cliffs were gorgeous, and we discussed the possibility that it would be quite likely that we would be able to end a day earlier given the speed at which we where travelling. Our itinerary gave us one day to the Moisie confluence and another day, roughly 45 km to a portage and a beautiful campsite. At our rate we would comfortably make all that into one day around 70 km of paddling. This was a good thing as it would give us a day to unpack the trip and for Alicia to decompress before work.
As we rounded one of the last bends before our portage (to the site) we some nude Quebecois basking on a beach. Classic! 30 or 40 minutes later we arrived at at quick portage to our campsite. A TRAIL!!!!! oh so easy and oh so short! We camped at the lovely gravel beach at the end, excellent views and cheesy scalloped taters where enjoyed for dinner. An incredible 70 km paddling day completed.
Day 10
Well let me tell you about today. We awoke in a leisurely manor representative of what we had accomplished not only the day, but days before. We slowly packed up our things and dilly-dallied over breakfast, egg wraps in case you were wondering. We walked back along the trail to get our canoe and inspect the rapid we had portaged around the day before to see if it was open boat runable. Alas it was a bit too high to run so we lined and lifted the boat over in a side channel. We grabbed our bags and paddled to the run out of the rapid so Fraser could fish, no luck yet again. We set forth down river, paddling deeper in to a very large burn. We hypothesized that this is the burn that caused the evacuation of parts of Sept Iles this past spring. Our Hypothesis was confirmed as we paddled past the pouvoir at the confluence of the Nipisis. We had paddled past this grand establishment last summer. It was now completely burned to the ground with nothing left but the stone chimneys. It was very sad. The burn did expose more of the rock slab so it did make this section more beautiful then last year. The water levels where naturally much lower, thus making it a slower paddle but 4hrs of total of paddling later (10:30-2:30) we arrived at our campsite beside the first rapid of the infamous railroad section of the Moisie. We fished and lounged on the rocks. Still nothing. Our Quebecois friends arrived, Fraser new one of them, of course. We watched them paddle down the rapid with a wee bit of trepidation. Some of them where definitely less skilled then others. A drizzle began and a wind began to rise, you know what that means. Tomorrow will be a wet one (hopefully not).
Armenian lentil stew for dinner and a round of cribbage before bed.
Day 11
We awoke to a steady misty drizzle, a quick pack up in the rain and we headed to the river. We were both very excited for today. The water was a 2-2.5 meters lower then last year's. This makes sense as the year before we had 1100cms (record breaking high water), and today Fraser thinks its average, so around 350ish. We stopped for a quick hello to Jean-David, the gentleman that Fraser knew. We laughed about the nudist moment the other day and collectively agreed it was a highlight of both of our trips. We carried on into the rain and JD went back to his tarp. It sounds as if they are going to divide this day into two days instead of the traditional one, so we won't be seeing them again. Tonight we have a dinner date to catch with our shuttle friend in sept iles and we have beers to drink. We made quick work of the portage rapid in despite of the slipperiness due to the rain. The rapids did not disappoint we ran quickly and efficiently, paddling smoothly through the big waves. At the Power line rapids we did some casual bailing, but this was the only time today we needed to bail. The second portion of the Trestle rapids we hummed and hawed about scouting while the current moved us closer and closer, but in the end we decided to enjoy the last hurrah of the trip boat scouting down the right. So much fun! We both agree that we love the long technical boat scouting style of rapids over the big wave ones. We waved good buy to the Moisie's fantastic whitewater and began the long flat water paddle to the takeout. It was at this point not a few minutes after the highs of the wonderful whitewater that the wind picked up from the south and a torrential rain begin. Ah the incredible high's followed immediately by deep lows strikes one final time. #storyofthetrip. Visibility decreased significantly as the wind and rain hammered into our faces making it seem as if you were moving at a snails pace (or not at all) The long boring flat last 15km paddle felt sooooo long. In the almost three hours of paddling we bailed once, and probably should have bailed a second time. We were absolutely soaking wet by the end - even through our rain coats. Finally we made it to the route 138 bridge, drenched and cold. We are so excited to be dry and not in a tent tonight! Beers, a bag of chips, coffee, a hot tub, a bed and poke bowls here we come! Thank you Neilson and Bianca for hosting us <3
The drive to Sept Iles was more tumultuous then normal as 1) we started hungover from Keven and Jenny's wedding and 2) the wedding was near North Bay, thus adding an additional 4 hours to our 13 hour drive. Yay! 17 hours of driving over the next 2 days! Day one we drove to our favourite spot, just past Malbaie. Along the way we had a lunch time poutine in Portage Fort and a not so quick stop at Morgan and Ben's to pick up the canoe. Day two of the drive was a little shorter (on purpose) as we needed to shuttle in to the river that evening. The morning ferry was wonderful, we drank our coffee and watched three whales (belguas) play in between the boats. We stopped at our favourite fish monger in Les Escumines (the only fish monger in Les Escumines) to pick up some fresh Cote Nord cod for dinner. As we where driving we texted Neilson (out shuttle driver), to confirm our arrival time in Sept iles. He notified us that his car was broken and could we please use Alicia's car. We had many questions; do you drive standard, is the road suitable for a Honda Civic? The answers delighted us, “Yes”. The cherry on top, he would store the car at his house, and drop it off at the takeout. The drive to Lac walker (Saint Margarite 3) passed through the ZEC Matimek, usually you have to pay at the gate, but no one was there and we drove on under Neilson's pass. The drive was gorgeous and it was hard sometimes not to gasp. It was also hard not to follow the lovely river and boating conversation we were having with Neilson. The road really was great, it was all-season (paved) to within 8 or 10km of our put in, and the hard packed gravel was stellar! We sampled cod for the first time for dinner, and absolute knockout fish! The campsite (at the boat launch) is beautiful, with plenty of fire wood, and only a little trash.
Day 1
We awoke early to the peaceful sound of waves lapping on shore...also to an animal (perhaps an otter?) Trying unsuccessfully to climb our tent, not once but twice. A quick breakfast was consumed and we were on the water with a light tail wind to carry us swiftly down the lake. As the wind was from the South West and the lake curves slightly East our glorious tailwind turned into a bothersome side wind. Still better then a head wind as the side wind kinda helped us at some points. The reservoir is massive, filling a once immense and powerful river and turning it into an angry lake. With the original river valley full, the small hills that dominated the valley are reduced to islands that dot the lake. The Steep valley and mountains that framed the original river, now hold the lake. This combination makes for a lake that does not have any camping opportunities, at some points getting out can be challenging as the shoreline is steep. The other challenge was navigating this immense waterway was our topographic paper maps where from the last datum (1972) and the SM3 dam was completed in 2002. Thus rendering our topographic maps useless (we needed the maps because they included the Ouapetec river). The old maps fascinating as they showed the old falls and rapids now drowned by the reservoir. The piece de resistance was looking at the Le Grand Portage de le Saint Margarite, around a Grand Chute of colossal proportions. Our Topographic map showed a tremendous canyon dropping hundreds of feet over 10km. What it was like to stand at the brink of such a place we will never know as it is a dry river bed, It's water diverted in to the turbines of the SM3 dam. Luckily our in reach was up to date and showed the lake.
The day was spent dragging a line without success as well as loosing a favourite spoon – no fish were caught. A highlight was seeing an eagle. We arrived to our portage spot early, after a brief mistake on our location (we hit the shore one bay too early). The plan was to look for the old Innu portage Mameshtan. While we did not think the portage would still be there, we hoped that there would be something, anything. As we unloaded on a pile of driftwood angels sang out and golden trumpets blasted. A trail was before us. Very clearly a snowmobile trail, our hearts soared! With the clock being what it was we started down a snowmobile trail with our spirits high. Fraser took the canoe and Alicia took any and all froo we did not need to camp, and started trekking down the trail. At first it was good, but as the minutes and meters passed into kilometres the trail began to deteriorate. We decided to check the GPS, wonderful 2.5km of travel done...Oh no...2.5km travelled in the wrong direction! We decided to leave the canoe where it was and walk back, scanning the trail for a possible turn off. Nothing! We walked up a the creek, where the Innu trail was supposed to be. Nothing. Our boat was now 2.5 Km (or so) towards Lac Daubrigon. We sat and discussed our options: do we carry the canoe back and make our own portage over to Petit lac Germain – 8kms of bad portaging? Or. Do we carry on towards lac Daubrigon (5kms total and the canoe was already half way), and then create our own 2nd 2km portage to a tributary to the water system we need to get to? We decided on option 2 as the canoe was already 2.5 km towards the new lake. Our hope was that the trail would get a bit better, and perhaps we could find another trail into our water system and not have to bush-walk. We feed our machines with seafood Alfredo, a heck of a day today: over 30km of paddling and 2.5 km of portaging. We headed to bed quickly as a drizzle begins to start.
Day 2
We awoke to a North wind and a steady drizzle. Our tent was wet, and parts of Fraser's sleeping bag was damp. Oh how he hates being wet! It appears the new ground sheet is not as dry as described. With the weather, we decided to have coffee and G-bars for breakfast. We also decided rain before 7 done by 11, and with that positive note we packed up and got ready to portage. Much to our chagrin it would rain all day, and by the end we would look like more like used cold sponges then people.
After bringing all of our stuff to the canoe we began part 2 of the portage. Remember how we had hoped it would get better. It didn't! It was right after struggling through an especially loving patch of alders and Fraser's pants were affectionately shredded that we elected to leave the snowmobile 'trail' in search of higher ground and clearer walking. And that we found! We made our on way on the top of a low ridge, making use of the clear caribou lichen meadows. 3 km later we made it to the lake, drenched. We lunched on a can of muscles and bread heading out to walk again in the atmospheric river. We got turned around a few times on our second load as we found another snowmobile trail. But in the end, with a few extra meters we made it through the wilderness to Lac Daubrigon, all in one piece, except for Fraser's pants. With our boat packed and spirits low we paddled into the wind and rain hoping to find a place to stay. Our hearts wanted a fire to warm our bones and dry our clothes. But we knew, deep inside that that might just not be possible in these conditions.
As we rounded a corner, lo and behold a cabin. We tried to look for the key to get inside (couldn't), so settled on camping behind the wood shed. Wow what a feeling, sitting beside a crackling fire out of the pouring rain and cold north wind. Hot chocolate with Kahlua was enjoyed immediately and an extensive drying rack was assembled. All this before settling into a regular evening: Dal bhat for dinner and cozying into a dry tent, amazing! What an incredible turn of events.
Day 3
we awoke to a North wind with a mix of sun and clouds. Morning was slow, Alicia spilled the coffee water and Fraser added way too much water to the oatmeal pot. Needless to say it was slow. Before leaving we left the cabin owners a wee letter thanking them for their hospitality. We paddled a few hundred meters down the lake to a spot that seemed reasonable to start our trek. We were momentarily excited when we saw more trails, but upon a quick scout noted that they seemed to be going around the lake, not over the mountain. We began the first of our two legs up and over. First the canoe and Froo. We went 200m up, (for you metrics) 600 feet up (for those that use imperial) and a fuckinahalfloadup (for everyone else) in elevation all within about a kilometre. One hour and a half later we reached the summit and were treated to many an open meadow of caribou lichen. The views are stunning, we can see the lake that we are coming from, as well as the start of Grand lac Germain. Part 3 sucked, we dragged the boat down through very new growth and alders. We had lunch at the bottom and joyously walked back for round two. Alicia laboured with the barrel, while Fraser navigated. This time we took an alternate route down the other side. It worked much better. All in all it took us 8 hours to portage 3km, we camped on the other side of Kidney lake (actually more of a pond).
Day 4
We woke to an alarm clock of loons. After a delicious breakfast of eggs and bacon in a wrap (toppings where garlic mayo, mushrooms and salsa), we started off with high spirits. Not a hop skip and a jump down the creek we came to our first obstacle. We lined and dragged our way stoically until we where able to paddle. The paddling was, however short lived as we came to a horizon line. The creek had decided to tumble from a great height over a rocky falls. Out we got and carried our stuff around the short portage, there was even a little animal trail to follow...easy! After the portage, we joined our the creek from the original plan. YAY, more water! We lined and lifted another small drop just as we entered the lake. Fraser whipped out his fishing gear excited to fish Grand lac Germain, and we began our 16km paddle across Grand lac Germain. After passing a cabin (not as luxurious as the last one, but still nice) the hills started getting much larger, as did the lake. We had a slight tail wind which pushed us across in good time. As we reached the far side it became apparent the we were not lucky and we would not be dinning on fish tonight. We checked our watches and concluded that it was still a bit too early to camp, so we began our decent down the Riviere Ouapetec. After a couple hundred meters of paddling, lining, and portaging we realized that it was best if we camped, and tackle the rest tomorrow. We began some serious remodelling of the area, and much gardening ensued. We now have a a tent site! We also took a little walk down river and concluded that we can run the rest of the rapids empty boated tomorrow.
Day 5
Today we learned the the river starts with a Q. This is very confusing as there is an outfitter at the mouth that starts with an O. Woops.
We awoke from our little nook in the forest, breakfasted and portaged our kit to the bottom of the rapids. We then ran the rapids which were so, so much fun. This began the theme of the day, very good white water and very bad portages. Anyway back to the day. We eddy hopped our way down the river, pausing briefly to scout around a corner. We want to be clear by 'eddy' we mean hold on to bushes on the side of the river. We were cautious as there was a known falls approaching. We caught the 'classic' last eddy above the falls, unloaded and began the torturous carry around the ragging falls and subsequent rapids. This particularly painful portage perfectly pulverized our bodies. It may have only been 500m but it took the better part of a few hours to complete. The forest was so tight with new balsam fir we resorted to dragging the boat over and under trees. Fraser's pants developed a few more holes in them, and we both lost a few more screws in our heads. We then treated to lovely R1s and 2s before the second ominous horizon line loomed ahead of us. The last available eddy was caught, we are now beginning to understand why every portage is in the last available eddy. We unloaded our canoe elated as this was a mile stone area and we both were excited for what the huge waterfall would be.
We excitedly don our packs, and momentarily forgot about the joys of portaging in this area: The black spruce snakes, sphagnum moss death pits and the unforgiving balsam fir fingers. This portage was slightly better then the last, although the bit in the middle had a few large ridges and rocks to contend with. Midway through our first load we stopped for lunch. A short hike down to the river's edge presented us with a never ending water slide, the piece de resistance of the S-bend falls. This slide dropped several hundred feet in the span of a km. Very impressive, but unfortunately we need to keep portaging. At the start of the second load we discovered the very old remnants of a portage trail. We saw very old cut marks and blazes that would then disappear, as well as a few strands of very old flager, white with age. We take our hats off to these individuals.
Finishing our last load we assessed the rapids at the bottom of the falls, they went in canoe, but with out a deck the continuous nature coupled with sheer size of the waves made the decision to carry our kit a little further down river. Although still continuous we believed it would soon start tapering off. We putin on a side channel of the river, most of the water volume takes the outside bend around a small island. There was however just enough water to manoeuvre our boat down our little channel. Not without a casual beach on rocks. Upon entering the main flow it was as if being shot from a canon. Where moments before we dodging and scraping over rocks, now the rocks were covered and we were in boof city. The river never stopped, no eddies just boat scouting amazing class 3 white water. A short while later we casually beached our selves needing to empty all the “fun” from inside our boat. Back on the river, we continued down as the river slowly eased off, ending finally, and abruptly in a pile of rocks and a pool full of smiles. We whooped for joy, what a heck of a day from the abysmal lows of the portaging to the immense highs of the white water.
We paddled on down the river hoping to find something marginally OK to camp at for the night, but understanding that, this might not happen given the looks of the land. Lucky for us fortune breathed upon us. A small rocky point for easy unloading and kitchen presented its self. All that was needed to erect our tent for the night was to move some burned logs...easy...in compared to the night before. Quinoa casserole for dinner, and early to bed.
Day 6
We awoke early after a restless night, way too warm. Only a little rain the night before, still we opted for the stove as it was easier. The bugs however probably ate better then we did. A quick get away was in order and we paddled fast for the first few minutes in order to get away from the ferocious flying insects. This was more difficult then you would think as it was incredibly calm. Point number two for the blackflys. The river began to pick up and we were treated to a few meh class twos. Nothing special, all boat scouting. We came around a blind corner and voila a surprise ledge. We snagged the classic one boat eddy and Fraser went off to scout. Turns out it went on the right, and was one of those “yea it probably goes, even though it doesn't look great” moments. Alicia concurred with that statement and we fired up the bounce slide ledge thing. It was a grand experience and Alicia got a heck of a lot of air, all the while staying dry and feeling like she was briefly falling sidewzys off the ledge. Great line! The fun and easy boat scouting carried on, tapering down to Lac Ouapetec. Lac Ouapetec is not named on the map, but we felt it is a fitting description for the only lake on the river. Of note again is it 'Q'uapetec or 'O'uapetec. Perhaps the cartographer was confused or perhaps the hunting outfitter was confused. As we approached the main portion of the lake a cabin added to this mystery by spelling it with an 'O' not a 'Q'. We will have to research the rivers name when we get home*.
Lac Ouapetec is where we really started to see the mountains rise around us, in front and behind. Crossing the lake Fraser caught a wee brook trout, the first fish of the trip! Lunch was enjoyed at the end of the lake as we assessed our options. They where as follows: portage here and now at the end of the lake, carry on down river and find another portage, start a 'loin portage' on the opposite side of the river. We opted to keep paddling. Perhaps 50m later we were presented with a horizon line and our portage eddy. This one was great (in comparison to everything else) lots of open caribou lichen to portage around. We finished both loads just before 3pm, it did not take much convincing by Alicia for Fraser to agree to camp. The sun was shining, there was a beautiful pool, and a rocky point. Exceptional! The cherry on top was a fantastic view of a portion of the falls we had just portaged around. Here we found remnants of our traveller friend's fire. Moss covered logs and stack of old wood next to it. Near where we pitched our tent we found a blaze on a tree. It seams they also though this was 'le bon spot'. Fraser built a fire pit with a good view of the falls and Alicia busied herself with a 'spot of gardening', clearing the labrador tea for a tent site. Fraser then went off to fish the pool and was lucky enough to catch a few wee brook trout. Unfortunately for us, but fortunately for the fish none where of a size for the fry pan. Alicia organized, cleaned and dried the barrel then announced it was time to clean our selves. The water was cold but we felt fantastic afterwords, funny how that is. Pizza for dinner and a single brownie for dessert, Fraser even made it square.
*At home we did some Googling on the 'O' vs 'Q' spelling issue. Nothing came up.
Day 7
Dear Diary:
We have been labouring for the past week. We have portaged every day, some times all day. To say the portaging has been hard has been an understatement. Never have we had such an emotional roller coaster of highs and lows. The white water, never ending always exceptional. Ironically Diary the the same words can be used for the portaging, never ending and exceptionally bad. The good news Diary is that we are finally passed the Island so the last of the hard portaging should be behind us.
Our hope was that we could paddle to the start of the island, thus shortening the inevitable portage. We are thankful that Fraser walked the almost 1 km of white water the day before, scouting till the River dropped away. Although it would have been doable, sometimes dearest Diary it is easier to face the 'loin portage' then to paddle. This one rates high on the list of worst portages we have done. We descended to early on our first load, and had to deal with thick balsam fir new growth. On the way back we went too high, in our attempt to find a path through the maze of balsam fir new growth. Not appealing whats so ever. Fraser swore many times regretting the decision to portage (even though he scouted and made the call). Upon reaching our beautiful campsite he sat him self down by the canoe readying himself like everyone before him to face the portage. With the canoe Alicia traced a middle ground and were able to, with some dragging get it through the new growth and over to the other side without to much heart ache.
Upon reaching the end, although exhausted we dug deep paddled the out flow rapid, and stopped. We did this not wanting to rest and lunch at the end of such a miserable experience. All in all it only took 3hrs or roughly all morning. Over a lunch of GORP we texted Father Cepella to ask about the rise in smoke. After lunch our pain and suffering was rewarded with a luxurious royal ride,and a very tasty treat of a rapid. Much to our chagrin the luxury was short lived after a testy bout of lining/portaging we were forced to trudge once again through the woods to our mossy campsite, albeit with only a little bit of balsam fir dragging. All this around a bonus series of ledges and falls. We felt deflated and defeated. What would the river serve us tomorrow? Protein powder and Kahlua (served separately) where consumed in order to raise spirits. This was not sufficient so chocolate was consumed as well. While all of our clothes air dried from the eight bucket loads of sweat, we began the dinner process. We opted for easy, a one pot meal, on the stove, dal bhat. Father Cepella by this point had gotten back to us, the smoke was being blown from fires near Quebec city. No concern to us.
Another early bed time, likely another big day tomorrow.
Day 8
We awoke in our mossy den, earlier then normal to warm rays from the sun. A quick get away and we were on the water just past 8:30. This, after lowering all of our stuff down the steep bank to get to the river. Royal ride ensued and we arrived quickly to our first problem point. An easy line, hurrah! As we floated down the easy R1s and royal rides we saw a moose, no more then 10 feet away from us! Not sure who was more surprised, us or the moose. We sat and floated (Fraser struggled to get his non functioning camera to work) until the large bull turned and walked off into the forest. The bull was a hunter dream, and had perhaps the biggest rack both of us had ever seen.
We carried on down our royal ride occasionally punctuated by R2s and beautiful cliffs. As we approached the canyon the river began to pick up and the walls to steepen. On river left almost a 1000 feet, on river right the high ridges top out over 2000 feet above us. Eddy to eddy we work our way down the river, non stop rapids never dulling our minds. Our one thought, where is the falls? Will we need to stop and portage at this corner? At one point the river steepens enough to warrant a look, luckily it goes as a portage here would be heinous. At this point the walls are tight around us. A look around a blind corner and we find our portage eddy and the sinister horizon line we have been waiting for. We negotiate the last section of whitewater a little wetter then usual. In the eddy, we both comment on how incredible the last km of river was. Challenging, but incredible. Unfortunately now the work begins again, we are forced to haul our gear up the side of the near vertical cliff in order to get to the flatter portaging ground. All this so we can begin our 1 km portage, all of this before 12pm.
The first load took a while, but we were comforted in the repeated sightings of our old friends portage cut marks that once used to be a trail...not that it helped at all. Looks like they did the exact same thing as us. Catch the last eddy and hack their way through the bush. At the end we juiced – a new bubble gum flavour from colombia, disgusting. We pushed off to take a look at the river. Alas if it was not for the next horizon line it would have been doable. We opted to line the top and run the bottom. Perhaps we should have portaged longer? The horizon line after that presents itself as a bonus portage. This one feels shorter, but sadly when we check our watches at the end we realize its almost camping time. On we go with the agreement that when it gets big we stop, no matter how bad the ca0pming. Lo and behold an easy royal ride ensues and we are whisked away through some braids to our campsite. We were overjoyed and relieved. Spag for dinner and a map sesh, confirming there will be only one more portage on the mighty Ouapetec.
Day 9
We awake on our one tent, tent site. A small patch of sand next to the river. Light and fluffy pillow cakes where expertly flipped by Fraser, who's flipping skills wowed Alicia. We headed out feeling trepidation, would the squiggles and rapid marks on our maps be a portage? The contours are close together, everything that we have learned from the river tells us there will be one. Fortunately the squiggles presented them selves as giggles and the anticipated portage turned to a last laugh as we lined a rocky top portion of a rapid to where we could run. We floated down the river elated that there would be no more portaging on the Ouapetec. Our elation grew as we floated through nameless mountains, ogling at cliffs of insanity. It seems the camera couldn't take the majesty, and only took sub par photos. To be fair it also did not help the it was before 10 am, therefore the light was in our eyes and there was a slight smokey haze. We blame all this for our inability to capture pictures of two more moose. It seams there are quite a few 'Loch Ness moose' in this area. We floated down silently as Alicia attempted to capture the grazing moose. 15 km later we celebrated at the confluence of the Moisie with an O'Henry bar. All before noon!
While the sun broiled our backs we paddled down the Moisie into a growing headwind. we took a break and floated through the canyons eating lunch. Hummus, cheese, apple and garlic mayo in a wrap. It sounds strange but was delicious. The cliffs were gorgeous, and we discussed the possibility that it would be quite likely that we would be able to end a day earlier given the speed at which we where travelling. Our itinerary gave us one day to the Moisie confluence and another day, roughly 45 km to a portage and a beautiful campsite. At our rate we would comfortably make all that into one day around 70 km of paddling. This was a good thing as it would give us a day to unpack the trip and for Alicia to decompress before work.
As we rounded one of the last bends before our portage (to the site) we some nude Quebecois basking on a beach. Classic! 30 or 40 minutes later we arrived at at quick portage to our campsite. A TRAIL!!!!! oh so easy and oh so short! We camped at the lovely gravel beach at the end, excellent views and cheesy scalloped taters where enjoyed for dinner. An incredible 70 km paddling day completed.
Day 10
Well let me tell you about today. We awoke in a leisurely manor representative of what we had accomplished not only the day, but days before. We slowly packed up our things and dilly-dallied over breakfast, egg wraps in case you were wondering. We walked back along the trail to get our canoe and inspect the rapid we had portaged around the day before to see if it was open boat runable. Alas it was a bit too high to run so we lined and lifted the boat over in a side channel. We grabbed our bags and paddled to the run out of the rapid so Fraser could fish, no luck yet again. We set forth down river, paddling deeper in to a very large burn. We hypothesized that this is the burn that caused the evacuation of parts of Sept Iles this past spring. Our Hypothesis was confirmed as we paddled past the pouvoir at the confluence of the Nipisis. We had paddled past this grand establishment last summer. It was now completely burned to the ground with nothing left but the stone chimneys. It was very sad. The burn did expose more of the rock slab so it did make this section more beautiful then last year. The water levels where naturally much lower, thus making it a slower paddle but 4hrs of total of paddling later (10:30-2:30) we arrived at our campsite beside the first rapid of the infamous railroad section of the Moisie. We fished and lounged on the rocks. Still nothing. Our Quebecois friends arrived, Fraser new one of them, of course. We watched them paddle down the rapid with a wee bit of trepidation. Some of them where definitely less skilled then others. A drizzle began and a wind began to rise, you know what that means. Tomorrow will be a wet one (hopefully not).
Armenian lentil stew for dinner and a round of cribbage before bed.
Day 11
We awoke to a steady misty drizzle, a quick pack up in the rain and we headed to the river. We were both very excited for today. The water was a 2-2.5 meters lower then last year's. This makes sense as the year before we had 1100cms (record breaking high water), and today Fraser thinks its average, so around 350ish. We stopped for a quick hello to Jean-David, the gentleman that Fraser knew. We laughed about the nudist moment the other day and collectively agreed it was a highlight of both of our trips. We carried on into the rain and JD went back to his tarp. It sounds as if they are going to divide this day into two days instead of the traditional one, so we won't be seeing them again. Tonight we have a dinner date to catch with our shuttle friend in sept iles and we have beers to drink. We made quick work of the portage rapid in despite of the slipperiness due to the rain. The rapids did not disappoint we ran quickly and efficiently, paddling smoothly through the big waves. At the Power line rapids we did some casual bailing, but this was the only time today we needed to bail. The second portion of the Trestle rapids we hummed and hawed about scouting while the current moved us closer and closer, but in the end we decided to enjoy the last hurrah of the trip boat scouting down the right. So much fun! We both agree that we love the long technical boat scouting style of rapids over the big wave ones. We waved good buy to the Moisie's fantastic whitewater and began the long flat water paddle to the takeout. It was at this point not a few minutes after the highs of the wonderful whitewater that the wind picked up from the south and a torrential rain begin. Ah the incredible high's followed immediately by deep lows strikes one final time. #storyofthetrip. Visibility decreased significantly as the wind and rain hammered into our faces making it seem as if you were moving at a snails pace (or not at all) The long boring flat last 15km paddle felt sooooo long. In the almost three hours of paddling we bailed once, and probably should have bailed a second time. We were absolutely soaking wet by the end - even through our rain coats. Finally we made it to the route 138 bridge, drenched and cold. We are so excited to be dry and not in a tent tonight! Beers, a bag of chips, coffee, a hot tub, a bed and poke bowls here we come! Thank you Neilson and Bianca for hosting us <3